Changes

* [[Tetouan]]

The official language is Arabic though the dialects spoken in Morocco and [[Algeria]] are signifcantly different than Modern Standard Arabic and dialects found in the Middle East and other parts of Africa. French is a common language of business and among educated people and in major cities will be almost universally understood. Many people in the north speak Spanish. The major Berber languages are fascinating but the effort required to learn them is probably too great for a casual tourist.

At a minimum you should have basic competence in French. A few words of Arabic will surprise most Moroccans, gain their respect and differentiate you from common tourists.

Police in Morocco are a great asset to a hitchhiker. Police roadblocks are common especially when the King is nearby. Approch them respectfully and make conversation and they will probably help you get a ride.

Cheap hotels are available in the medinas of most cities for 20-40 Dirham. Expect an uncomfortable mattress, cold communal shower and don’t be surprised if you wake up with bug bites. Hotels are required to see your passport and most will want to hold it until they make a photocopy. There is little danger of a hotel worker stealing your passport but it is a good idea to keep several photocopies with you for peace-of-mind.

Outside most cities and towns are places one can sleep discretely without a tent. Just make sure you get up before dawn. Also be aware that out-of-the-way spots that look like good places to sleep are often used as public toilets. Public parks, where they exist, tend to be “cruising areas” where men meet to have sex.

In some places, especially near trucking routes, are semi-permanent tents made of plastic sheeting wrapped around a timber frames. These are usually empty though you may want to ask first.

If you are humble and quiet and kind this will come quite easily. Sometimes the hospitality is exhausting and you may want to take a cheap hotel for some privacy and space to breathe.

Because of the importance of tourism to the economy, anyone found physically harming a foreigner is punished severely. Attacks and terrorism against foreigners is extremely rare but due caution is advised. Far more common are a wide range of scams and hustles.

Travelers including hitchhikers going to Mauritania are likely to encounter a cigarette scam in southern cities such as Tiznit and especially Guilmeme. Typically the traveler is engaged by a local who inquires about his or her plans for traveling further and after some discussion is told that to avoid delays and harassment at the Mauritanian frontier he should bring a gift of cigarettes. He may also be told that cigarettes are very expensive in Mauritania and/or Western Sahara and with a pack of cigarettes he can buy everything from a fish to a room in a hotel.

Locals driving cars usually bring a gift of some sort to help ease the passage into Mauritania but hitchhikers should not expect problems.

Hashish and kif are widely smoked in Morocco. Buying on the street is not advised. Sometimes dealers work with police who will then bust the buyer. More likely you will get low grade product or even henna for an inflated price. At best you will pay a ‘tourist tax’ of at least 500%.

Always be careful about discussing religion and politics while hitchhiking. This is especially true in Morocco. Nearly everyone in Morocco is a Muslim and the religion permeates every part of the culture. Moroccans love to discuss God and a hitchhiker will certainly be asked about his religious beliefs. Muslims recognize Christians and Jews as “people of the book” and are respected—especially if they are knowledgeable about the Bible and can intelligently discuss religion. Claiming to be an atheist, agnostic, Buddhist, Taoist, Hindu or member of some other nonmonotheistic religion is not advised. There is little danger of being beheaded as an infidel but being a believer may mean the difference between being merely tolerated and being welcomed into peoples’ homes. And of course, keep any negative opinions about Islam, Muhammad etc. to yourself.

[[Western Sahara]] is recognized by most countries as occupied territory. The Kingdom of Morocco and most Moroccans consider it part of Morocco. It is technically illegal in Morocco to assert anything else. From 1976 until 1991 the Polisario waged a civil war for independence. In 1991 the United Nations brokered a cease-fire and an agreement was reached to hold a referendum for independence. The referendum has yet to take place and 60 percent of the Moroccan army is still stationed in the territory. The history and current situation is very complex but a hitchhiker there should be very careful about what he says and to whom. Under no circumstances should you claim or admit to being a journalist or writer. Doing so is asking for trouble, possible arrest and will endanger any Saharawis you are seen with.

Morocco is a Monarchy and King Muhammad V is universally respected if not always liked. You will see his picture in nearly every café, office, shop and more than a few homes. Many consider his father Hassan II a tyrant and his reign is often known by Moroccans as the Black Years. Still, avoid saying anything that could be construed as criticism of any member of the royal family, dead or alive.

The border to [[Algeria]] is closed.

* [http://askamylin.blogspot.com/2009/02/morocco.html Amylin's excellent advice on getting along in Morocco]

* [[Western Sahara]]

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